"Each vegetable has its own time", and each plant has its own optimal time for planting. Anyone who has encountered planting is well aware that the hot planting season is spring and autumn. This is due to several factors: in the spring, the plants have not yet started to grow rapidly, there is no sweltering heat and precipitation often falls. However, no matter how hard we try, often the circumstances are such that landings have to be carried out at the very height of summer. The success of such work largely depends on the type of planting material and the use of special agricultural techniques that facilitate plant survival in a new place. How to make landing fit with minimal risks, you will learn from our article.
Summer planting of seedlings with an open root system (ACS)
This type of planting material has the shortest implementation period. Decent nursery owners stop selling dug out seedlings of fruit and ornamental crops as soon as the leaves begin to bloom on them, and they dig up unsold planting material.
This is due to the fact that a root devoid of soil ceases to work fully. At the same time, the plant spent its last efforts to open the buds, young leaves will require enhanced nutrition and moisture, but the dug out seedling will not be able to provide its aboveground part with everything necessary. This situation is very stressful and can lead to the death of the plant.
Nevertheless, we often see in the shopping arcade a lot of seedlings with bare roots, on which the foliage is green. Sometimes a similar picture can be observed even in late May-early June, despite the fact that the deadline for the sale of seedlings with ACS is the end of April (or the beginning of May in the cold late spring).
Sellers give their goods at bargain prices, and some gardeners may be tempted to purchase new seedlings (almost for nothing). But is it worth it?
Theoretically, there is always a chance for the salvation of any, even the most tortured plant, but still it is better to refuse such purchases. If you nevertheless purchased a seedling with bare roots out of season, then it will take a lot of time and effort to try to help it take root in a new place.
Such seedlings will develop small inferior leaves in the first year. If the adaptation procedure was successful, then by the next season the crown will gain a healthy look. However, be prepared for the fact that the sapling will stand for the whole summer with underdeveloped foliage (neither dead nor alive), and will not come out of winter next spring.
The main measures to save a seedling with an open root system planted in the summer :
Regular watering, preferably with the addition of drugs that promote the formation of young roots (for example, "Kornevin"). But it is impossible to overdo it in this matter, since excess moisture can lead to the development of fungal diseases or even rotting of the root.
The root zone should be covered with mulching material to reduce moisture evaporation (straw, compost, fallen needles, etc.).
Installing a shading screen that protects from direct sunlight. It can be built from cardboard or purchased a special shading mesh.
Spraying the crown with an antistress drug (Epin-Extra, Zircon, HB-101).
Planting seedlings with a closed root system (ZKS) in the summer
Theoretically, seedlings with a closed root system do not have a limited planting period, they can be planted throughout the warm season, and landscape designers, using such planting material, successfully implement their projects all summer. However, this rule is valid only for seedlings that were originally grown in containers, and were not placed there immediately before the sale.
Plants with ZKS are available in nurseries from spring to autumn, and there is always the opportunity to purchase a new plant for planting in the garden. But is it so easy to plant seedlings in the midst of summer?
Of course, seedlings from containers have minimal trauma to the root system. By the way, one can often find recommendations when planting container plants to destroy the root ball and straighten tangled roots. But when planting in the summer, it is better to abandon these measures so as not to injure the roots. Do not be afraid, the plant itself will be able to figure out that it fell into more spacious conditions and will begin to grow in breadth.
Nevertheless, in any case, the plants will be in new conditions, which they will have to adapt to and they will need help. Look at the flower beds in the summer heat, often even the most persistent plants lower their leaves and look depressed, and newcomers will also have to spend energy to adapt to changing living conditions.
In nurseries, all planting material is often protected from direct sunlight by a special shading canopy so that the containers do not dry out too quickly. Getting into a flower bed or in a garden with an open sun in the summer heat, a seedling can get severe burns or completely “burn out”.
This implies the first rule of planting seedlings with summer planting plants : it is imperative to prune the planting. For this purpose, for small plants, you can build a special hut from a shading net or the thinnest non-woven material in white. Moreover, such a design must necessarily be well blown with air, otherwise in the summer heat, seedlings can simply “cook” in such “greenhouses”.
It is possible to remove the shading only after the young leaves have actively begun to grow in the new settlers, and the turgor will fully recover in the old leaves. Shade-tolerant plants that are planted in partial shady corners, you can not shade.
Often we also receive seedlings with a closed root system by mail, and then even in early summer, you can be surprised to find in the parcel seedlings with unopened buds due to the fact that the plants were stored in cool conditions.
If the buds on the shrub have not yet blossomed, then after planting the plants, it is better not to shade, so that the young leaves independently prepare for the level of illumination that they will encounter. Otherwise, foliage that has blossomed under the shade may subsequently receive a burn.
The second rule : choose the right weather for landing. The calendar summer is different, and sometimes it happens that June is colder than May, and then no problems with the survival of plants with ZKS should arise. Sometimes, summer rains are replaced by the sun, only briefly refreshing the earth with moisture.
But it often happens that in the middle of summer a real rainy season sets in, when rainfall falls daily for one or two weeks. If you are planning a summer planting or transplanting, it is better to study the weather forecast and wait for the arrival of such a rainy period, because cloudy and damp cool weather is very conducive to good survival of seedlings.
The third rule : regular plentiful watering. Well-rooted plants can survive a short drought. Even if the leaves partially fade due to lack of moisture, most likely the plant will be able to recover.
But newcomers have a hard time. Even if you planted plants that are famous for their drought tolerance, at first they also need abundant watering. This will allow the roots to better settle in the new soil, and the root coma to become one with the local soil.
For successful survival, the plant should receive daily watering for at least a week. Watering with drugs to improve root formation and anti-stress agents is also welcome. But it is impossible to fertilize the planted plants. In any case, the roots could get microtraumas and mineral fertilizer can cause them burns, and new settlers will not be able to fully absorb the fertilizer, since all the forces of the plant are devoted to adaptation.
Large-sized summer planting with a lump of land
Along with plants with ZKS in summer in nurseries one can always find on sale seedlings of fruit and ornamental crops in comas. As a rule, these are adult specimens that reach several meters in height and are often used in the work of landscape designers.
Such plants can be preserved and planted in a new place through the use of special technologies. In early spring, before the leaves bloom, seedlings are dug up by specialized equipment that preserves an earthen lump with minimal damage to the roots.
So that the root ball does not crumble during long-term storage, the root system is tightly wrapped in burlap. In very large trees, in addition to burlap, a metal mesh is also additionally used, which will protect the root ball from destruction during transportation.
Before implementation, plants with a root lump are watered with drip irrigation, or placed in moist sawdust. During the summer, seedlings prepared in this way grow well and develop. Thanks to this, it is possible to assess the state of the plant and evaluate the decorative state of the culture.
The summer planting of such large-sized plants in most cases is successful and almost painless, since most of the roots remain inside a well-packed coma. When planting seedlings in lumps at a new place of residence, it is not necessary to unpack the root lump. Sacking is a natural material that quickly decomposes in the ground, and a metal mesh will not prevent the growth of roots, and will decay in the soil after a few years.
Advantages of summer planting seedlings
So, in summary, to summarize, what kind of plants can be planted in a new place in the summer:
during the summer, it is permissible to plant large-sized plants with a specially prepared root lump;
seedlings of fruit and ornamental crops with a closed root system.
Also, the procedure will be successful if you are replanting small plants inside your own garden or from neighbors with a large lump of land. It is better to choose plants that are currently not in bloom, and have already bloomed in the spring months, or will bloom in the fall.
The positive aspects of planting seedlings in summer:
In the summer, you can see the “product face” and fully appreciate the decorative qualities of the plant. Indeed, it often happens that a flower is incredibly effective in photographs, but in reality it makes a completely different impression. And vice versa, a plant that the look in the catalog does not stop at will appear in all its glory in a successful company and you will certainly want to plant it in the garden.
Often, flower growers make mistakes with planting density and plant young outlets close or, on the contrary, at too great a distance. With a summer purchase, you get a well-developed plant that allows you to determine the optimal distance between new specimens and neighboring plantings.
In early spring, it is not always easy to determine whether planting material is alive and whether buds are blooming on it. In the summer you can always choose a guaranteed living plant with good leafiness and maximum decorativeness.
In the summer there are no spring-flowers of garden work, and you can calmly and leisurely take up garden planning, choose the best place for the plant, go to the nursery and purchase planting material.
There are no crowded people in garden shops, nurseries, and shopping malls, and you can clearly see the entire assortment of plants. And when buying, you do not have to stand in lines.
Compared with the autumn planting, seedlings have more time to root and lay buds for the next season. Most often, plants in summer plantings are better at hibernating and developing faster next summer than those that were planted in the fall.
Optimal timing for planting plants
And in conclusion, a few words about which period will be most optimal for planting seedlings.
The optimal time for planting seedlings of fruit and ornamental trees and shrubs with an open root system: two to three weeks before the onset of the first autumn frosts. These dates vary depending on the region, and this can be either the end of September or mid-end of October. In spring, the best time for planting seedlings with ACS is from mid-April to early May.
Perennial crops (flowers, garden strawberries) are planted and transplanted, depending on the timing of flowering. Blooming in the spring and in the first half of summer, they take root better when transplanted in the fall. Those plants whose flowering time falls in the middle of summer or autumn should be planted in spring.
The most favorable time for planting conifers and shrubs is from August 25, and no later than three weeks before the first autumn frosts. In spring, it is best to plant and transplant conifers from late April to mid-May.